The fashion industry is at a critical turning point, and California might just be leading the charge towards a more sustainable future. With Governor Gavin Newsom on the verge of signing a groundbreaking bill that will hold fashion brands responsible for ensuring their products don’t end up in landfills, it’s time to ask: Should the UK and EU follow suit?
California’s proposed law, which targets textile waste, is a bold step forward. It shifts the burden of responsibility from consumers and waste management systems directly onto the brands that produce the goods. Brands would be legally required to find ways to recycle or repurpose old garments, pushing them towards a more circular and sustainable fashion model. This is about transforming the entire lifecycle of fashion products. And as California sets this precedent, it's worth asking whether the UK and EU should embrace similar legislative action.
The UK and EU’s Existing Efforts: Solid, but Not Enough
Both the UK and the EU have already made strides in promoting sustainability within the fashion industry, but their current frameworks fall short of enforceable laws like California’s proposed bill. The EU Textile Strategy and the UK’s Textiles 2030 initiative are commendable efforts aimed at reducing the environmental impact of fashion. However, these initiatives remain largely voluntary, relying on brands to commit to change rather than being legally bound to do so.
In France, we’ve seen the introduction of the Anti-Waste Law for a Circular Economy, which includes an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme for fashion brands. This law requires brands to ensure their products are recycled or reused, and it’s one of the closest examples to California’s bill. Yet, much of Europe and the UK still lack this kind of enforceable framework.
California’s bill is game-changing because it places a legal obligation on brands to deal with the waste they generate. This is not just recycling here and there but rather a systemic shift. And if the UK and EU want to stay ahead in the sustainability race, following California’s lead with their own mandatory regulations could be the logical next step.
Public Pressure is Mounting
It’s no secret that consumers are becoming more eco-conscious, and their expectations of brands are shifting rapidly. In the UK and across Europe, there's growing pressure on governments and fashion brands to step up and take full responsibility for their environmental impact. We’re seeing this reflected in the rising demand for transparency, accountability, and sustainability from all corners.
The fashion rental market, second-hand shopping, and “buy less, choose well” mentalities are gaining traction. Consumers are no longer satisfied with brands making vague promises about sustainability; they want concrete actions and measurable outcomes. If California’s bill passes, it could spark similar demands in the UK and EU, with consumers expecting not just greener practices but enforceable commitments to reducing waste.
How Digital Product Passports Can Play a Key Role
If the UK and EU were to adopt similar laws, there would need to be systems in place to track and manage the lifecycle of every fashion item. This is where Digital Product Passports (DPPs) come into play. DPPs offer an efficient and transparent solution for tracking the journey of a garment, from its initial production all the way to its recycling or repurposing.
DPPs allow brands to create a digital record for each product, documenting the materials used, the production process, and the garment’s environmental footprint. With the right systems in place, brands can ensure that their products are traceable, making it easier to recycle or repurpose them at the end of their lifecycle. This level of transparency is a solution to meet regulatory demands and a tool that gives consumers confidence in the products they buy.
In the context of California’s bill, DPPs could be a game-changer for brands, offering them a way to comply with new regulations and demonstrate their commitment to sustainability. Adopting this could be part of a wider legislative framework aimed at ensuring product transparency.
A Call for Stronger Action in the UK and EU
If California's proposed law passes, it could pave the way for similar regulations worldwide. For the UK and EU, this would mean moving beyond voluntary initiatives and making sustainability a legal requirement for brands. The introduction of a bill that holds fashion companies accountable for their waste would not only help reduce the environmental impact of the fashion industry but also cement the UK and EU as leaders in the global push for sustainability.
Incorporating Digital Product Passports into such legislation could help ensure that transparency and traceability are at the core of fashion production and consumption. By adopting these technologies and legal frameworks, the UK and EU would be positioned to meet the demands of eco-conscious consumers, while creating a more sustainable, circular economy for fashion.
It’s clear that the fashion space is changing, and it’s time for legislation to keep up. The California bill is a bold and necessary step, but it’s just the beginning. Now, the UK and EU must decide whether to follow suit, pushing fashion brands towards a future where sustainability and accountability are legal requirements.